Best Place to Eat

The thing about Ostuni is there are no shortage of good places to eat. Value for money is a guarantee. My latest favourite has to be Nautilus, if you like seafood, this place is the place you can’t miss, very modestly priced.
In terms of atmosphere the grotto type restaurants offer the best ambience, which is odd for eating in Italy in the summer, choosing to eat indoor rather than fuori.(outside).. It is usually a matter of taste as to which do the best dishes or cuisine, I have my own favourites like Lo Spessite for it’s unique dishes of the region. Just let them feed you, don’t bother with a menu. Have to add that in spring 2017 I ate at candina di seppetise very near the statue of Sant’Aronzo, and I loved it, amazing food atmosphere and price, my friend brought me there and we ate 3 courses each, drank a litre of wine, downed 2 amaro del vecchio capo, and it cost 30 euro.

Bringing a girl on a date, Porto Nova is sophisticated. Osteria del Tempo Perso is Michelin Star. But, for me, I think Taverna della Gelosia, go there, eat anti pasta della casa, drink some wine, simple it may be, but tell me I’m wrong. If you want to eat fine food, you have a sacco di soldi, (bag of money), and are not very hungry, try la Sommita up near the cathedral at the summit of Ostuni, oh it’s posh, they serve nice bread with the meal, you’ll need it.

Il Posto Affinco, always bustling, but eat outside.

And Caffè Cavour, really mouthwatering authentic Ostunese food.. love that place

Years ago I loved La Reggia for its very friendly mood, the cavern type interior and mixed antipasti that were to die for… the mixed antipasti was about as much as you eat as well. Funny thing was it was never on the menu, I was unsure what to order one time, it was not high season and Peppe the owner and chef, made a taste of everything for me. Thing was I would ask the waiter for it every time I went, even when it was busy in August, and I was never disappointed. My favourite main there if I could manage it after the antipasti was the swordfish.. with as sauce of tomato olive and capers, fantastic. They moved back to their home town north of Ostuni, Torre Canne and called their restaurant Il Dubbio.

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Photos of the beach house

Beach House

Beach House







at the back

at the back

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In Ostuni I found the most fantastic local wine sold by the litre, at about 1.10 euro per litre. It came about that I got talking to 2 local chaps in a field next to me. One of them asked me if I knew his shop. Lu Capuson i think it is called.

I followed him in his car to Ostuni town, because he was opening up after lunch. I think it was about 5pm. He had a small shop with 6 hugh containers of wine. Most of them were red and varying percentages of Negro Amaro, for the most part, and Malvasia Nera, grapes (80/20 mix). I started by tasting a few and I was given some snacks to taste with them. There some nice rose and white wines but my favourite was the red about 70 / 30, Negro Amaro/Malvasia Nera. At a whopping €3.30 for 3 litres that time, I was back for 10 very soon. Which of course cost €11, which is the amount for one bottle of identical Salice Salentino in Dublin.

Well I thought this year, I thought I’d lost an old friend, because his shop had closed down. Next day on the way home from the market, I heard him shout my name, he’d move to the other side of the road (via Nino Sanone) and called his shop Non Solo Vino. Of course over the years I found he was not the only shop selling in that fashion.

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Inside Ostuni


Typical street of Ostuni

Typical street in Ostuni

The town of Ostuni (about 33,000 inhabitants) is situated on the last hill of southern Murgia. Its old town, is unmistakable, blindingly white in colour against the dark green olive trees that dominate the area. The houses painted strictly white earned fantastic descriptions, such as the White City or Queen of Olives.

Ostuni is a fascinating tangle of narrow, winding streets, a succession of short, small squares and alleys, a labyrinth of mystery and wonder, which lead finally to the top of the hill, where stands the Cathedral, a wonderful synthesis of elements of Romanesque, Gothic and Venetian, which dominates the plain of olive trees to the sea.

There are homes shops and restaurants, often dug into the rock, connected by arches and semi-arches which act as buttresses and support.


The vibrant streets of Ostuni are bustling with tourists from around Italy and abroad during the summer months, but in particular during the festival of St Oronzo at the end of August.

For me the best time to see the town is at night. A walk up the old town towards the Cattedrale, there will usually be some novel activity in the streets particularly in august, then loose yourself in the magic labyrinth which is Ostuni centro storico.

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Ostuni Taxis

Coming from the Ostuni station, on Saturday Mornings, there were 2 taxis outside to meet the main trains. I got numbers for them, but wouldn’t you know it, i left them on the shelf with all the other numbers back in the Trullo.
In general they are difficult to find in the town, particularly at night, friends of mine, even with the numbers i gave them, found it impossible even in high season.

Does anyone know of a good taxi service in Ostuni, Brindisi? If for example i wanted to go from the Railway station in Ostuni to the Town centre what would be the best way to do that? Is there a number i could ring from the train so the taxi would be waiting on my arrival? Please if anyone knows, let me know?



Local Trains FSE

Local Trains FSE

The main website for checking-out train times, prices and bookings is ferroviadellostato FS. But here in the south, in the Salentino heal, there are other rail services: is the official website for this region and one can check the timetables and duration of journeys here. I was confused when I couldn’t make connections to places I knew had railways, it never occurred to me that they wouldn’t be on the main FS website. I’ve friends staying in Lecce for a few days and they don’t want to drive, however the service from Lecce to Gallipoli Otranto or the tip of the heal, is quite good.


Getting to Ostuni

Information on getting to Ostuni:

Getting to Ostuni depends a lot on where you are coming from. I come from Dublin and I have done it several ways. There is a railway in Ostuni and the main Bari – Lecce motorway passes Ostuni about 6km from it.

Ryanair fly from London Stanstead to Brindisi
London Stansted 17:15:00 21:05:00 Arrive Brindisi
Brindisi 21:30:00 23:35:00 Arrive Stansted

There are direct trains from Rome, Bologna, Milan etc, and the railway station in Ostuni is about 1km east of Ostuni town. It would be necessary to get a taxi from the station to the town. The best way to organise a train trip in Italy is to use their web site TrenItalia All connections and times are given, all you need to know is the origin and destination.

Travelling by road is straight forward as there are motorways (Autostrada) that go from all airports to near Ostuni. The turn for Ostuni from the motorway from Bari to Brindisi/Lecce is clearly marked, in fact there are 4 possible exits so even if you missed one the next would do fine. The best exit to take, i.e. the shortest distance (6km) in the exit displayed as (Ostuni/Porto Nova).. For all journey planners there is always Google Maps or the excellent route finder Via Michelin

Ostuni is easily accessable today with Ryanair flying to Brindisi. Brindisi is the closest airport to Ostuni, but there are many more options available depending on where you are flying from. And Ryanair are not the only airline to fly to Bari or Brindisi, check out Puglia Airports for details of other airlines flying there.

Ryanair have now opened up more routes to Bari and Brindisi the list now includes:
















Venice Treviso






Coming from Dublin, Ireland, I have gone to Ostuni many ways trying to get the right combination between travel time and cost..
Probably the fastest is to fly to Naples with Aer Lingus and drive to Ostuni. The Drive to Ostuni takes about 3 hours or less if you go a little bit faster than you should.. Car hire from Hertz usually works out well, but flights from Aer Lingus are not as competitive as the RyanAir ones.

Ive gone Ryanair to Ciampino Rome, which takes about 5hours but you can get cheaper flights..

Tolls cost about €20 and petrol €40 from Rome and about 2/3 of both from Naples.

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Ostuni Mercato

Saturday Morning in Ostuni is a buzz down at the open air market. Hundreds of stalls open for business about 8am and close up about 1pm. There is always an abundance of locally produced fruit and vegtables, clothes, handbags, shoes, furniture, soft furnishings, ceramics and all manner of unusual things.

The market is held at the large open space at the edge of the town, south west of the centre.
If you are looking at it from Google maps go left from the football stadium along via Dottore Nino Sansone and you see what looks like some circular roads, not unlike a small race track, where there it is, Ostuni Market, open saturday mornings.

For those of us doing a bit of self catering, buying the fruit and vegtables that are in season from around the Ostuni area is the best way to taste fresh food the way it should be. There is an indescribable difference in terms of taste between sinking your teeth into a fresh locally produced peach, and what I’ve been used to at home. Not just that, but the prices are unbelievably inexpensive. I was buying a kilo of melanzane (Aubergines) and zucchini (courgettes) it was a euro.. (pronounced Air-row), and the kilo of oranges 67c etc, i had enough fruit and veg for the week, for € 10… and there were 5 of us.

There is a smaller market on a wednesday, it is mainly fruit and veg, at the back via Nino Sansone, there are some clothes and household nick-nacky stuff and it is not too busy. Another Market exists on a Friday morning near that modern church and the all weather soccer pitch, not the stadium, along by via Verona. It has less fruit and veg than the Wednesday one and more of what you’d find at the usual saturday market, however a fraction of the size.

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Summer 2009

i’m home after 7 weeks in my trullo in Ostuni.. In Dublin it is cold and grey, and i’m missing the sun the sea the food the town my trullo and to make matters worse, i have to work on Monday.

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The Land

The soil around Ostuni is incredible. Rich in iron the red earth grows all manner of things both wild and cultivated. I asked the children to go around the land and find as many things to eat as possible and this was what they brought back.

Figi di India ( Prickly Pears )

Fennel bulbs

This year there has been a fair bit of rain in the winter so I wonder what effect it will have on the land and that which grows on it. I heard reports that the grass was 50cm high at Easter, so who knows?

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