May
25
2017
1

Best Place to Eat

The thing about Ostuni is there are no shortage of good places to eat. Value for money is a guarantee. My latest favourite has to be Nautilus, if you like seafood, this place is the place you can’t miss, very modestly priced.
In terms of atmosphere the grotto type restaurants offer the best ambience, which is odd for eating in Italy in the summer, choosing to eat indoor rather than fuori.(outside).. It is usually a matter of taste as to which do the best dishes or cuisine, I have my own favourites like Lo Spessite for it’s unique dishes of the region. Just let them feed you, don’t bother with a menu. Have to add that in spring 2017 I ate at candina di seppetise very near the statue of Sant’Aronzo, and I loved it, amazing food atmosphere and price, my friend brought me there and we ate 3 courses each, drank a litre of wine, downed 2 amaro del vecchio capo, and it cost 30 euro.

Bringing a girl on a date, Porto Nova is sophisticated. Osteria del Tempo Perso is Michelin Star. But, for me, I think Taverna della Gelosia, go there, eat anti pasta della casa, drink some wine, simple it may be, but tell me I’m wrong. If you want to eat fine food, you have a sacco di soldi, (bag of money), and are not very hungry, try la Sommita up near the cathedral at the summit of Ostuni, oh it’s posh, they serve nice bread with the meal, you’ll need it.

Il Posto Affinco, always bustling, but eat outside.

And Caffè Cavour, really mouthwatering authentic Ostunese food.. love that place

Years ago I loved La Reggia for its very friendly mood, the cavern type interior and mixed antipasti that were to die for… the mixed antipasti was about as much as you eat as well. Funny thing was it was never on the menu, I was unsure what to order one time, it was not high season and Peppe the owner and chef, made a taste of everything for me. Thing was I would ask the waiter for it every time I went, even when it was busy in August, and I was never disappointed. My favourite main there if I could manage it after the antipasti was the swordfish.. with as sauce of tomato olive and capers, fantastic. They moved back to their home town north of Ostuni, Torre Canne and called their restaurant Il Dubbio.

Written by conrad in: Restaurants | Tags: , , , , ,
Jan
27
2015
0

Wine/Vino

In Ostuni I found the most fantastic local wine sold by the litre, at about 1.10 euro per litre. It came about that I got talking to 2 local chaps in a field next to me. One of them asked me if I knew his shop. Lu Capuson i think it is called.

I followed him in his car to Ostuni town, because he was opening up after lunch. I think it was about 5pm. He had a small shop with 6 hugh containers of wine. Most of them were red and varying percentages of Negro Amaro, for the most part, and Malvasia Nera, grapes (80/20 mix). I started by tasting a few and I was given some snacks to taste with them. There some nice rose and white wines but my favourite was the red about 70 / 30, Negro Amaro/Malvasia Nera. At a whopping €3.30 for 3 litres that time, I was back for 10 very soon. Which of course cost €11, which is the amount for one bottle of identical Salice Salentino in Dublin.

Well I thought this year, I thought I’d lost an old friend, because his shop had closed down. Next day on the way home from the market, I heard him shout my name, he’d move to the other side of the road (via Nino Sanone) and called his shop Non Solo Vino. Of course over the years I found he was not the only shop selling in that fashion.

Written by conrad in: Wine | Tags: , ,
Apr
03
2009
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Trullo


What is a Trullo? It’s a Building. It is the traditional house of the Puglia region of Italy. It is similar to a cottage but with a cylindrical body and a cone shaped stone roof. All made from local abundant stone, the walls can be a few meters thick. In this way they keep the heat out in the summer and the heat in, in the winter, in the same way a cave does.
Each room usually has its own cone, and small side cones or half cones may cover a bedroom, that generally has enough room to accommodate one bed. The bedrooms, or alcoves with beds, are often covered by a curtain which can provide a very romantic appearance.
Trullo bedroom
There are many theories on why they were built like this, one is that they were built in a drystone way, so they could be demolished if the property tax collector was in the region, and then rebuilt when he leaves. Fantastic idea, but highly impractical. Most peasants in the 15th 16th 17th 18th and early 19th centuries in this region, particularly the Itria Valley of Puglia, lived in a trullo. In one way building in stone was practical because it was in such abundance, but there is evidence of trulli through the centuries from Israel to the Skellig Island of county Kerry in Ireland. Maybe migrating people carried the skill of building in this way with them, or the absence of other materials was the mother of the invention.

There are different styles of trullo, or in other words they can appear different depending on their finish. Here are some examples:

Dry Stone Trullo

Dry Stone Trullo

Plastered Trullo

Plastered Trullo

Plastered Trullo Stone Roof with Pinnacle

Plastered Trullo Stone Roof with Pinnacle

Lamia, trullo with a dome roof

Lamia, trullo with a dome roof

There is a thriving business in restoring trulli for holiday homes or even to live in. Many locals that live in the town of Ostuni for example, have a trullo just outside in the country, where they spend their summers and autumns tending the land, picking the fruit, the nuts, olives etc. Italians and overseas buyers use them as holiday homes, and in some cases building swimming pools, to add some luxury to the property. There are some foreigners that live in a trullo all year round, reaping the benefits of a tranquil life, short winter and a long summer.
A renovated Trullo, or trulli (plural) can have all the modern facilities like kitchen, bathroom, electricity and central heating. Renting a trullo for a holiday is a unique experience and with fantastic weather from May to October, they can be inexpensive out of high season.

Written by conrad in: Houses | Tags: , , , ,
Mar
10
2009
0

Holiday in Ostuni

Imagine the scene: waking up in a peaceful Trullo surrounded by olive trees under a blue sky at the beginning of another wonderful day holidaying in Ostuni. Deep in the Heel of Italy, in the region of Puglia, dry stone walls separate fields of red earth and ancient olive groves, surrounded by the largest stretch of unspoilt coast line in Italy.

The Garden

The Garden


Holidaying in the land of the Trulli is a truly magical experience. I’ve being going there years and have enjoyed guaranteed sunshine every summer. If there is one thing a holiday here is more than, is just sunshine. The things to do here are as much about experience as activity. Picking figs, plums and small red pears before breakfast, then eating them still warm from the morning sun, begins a day in touch with a piece of paradise.
Breakfast

Breakfast

The coast line of Ostuni is as varied as it is breathtaking. Whether it is long sandy beaches or inlets and coves, the sea is as clean and clear as you will find. We usually take it easy in the morning and arrive at the beach about 11. Choosing which one is the only debate as we all have different favourites, but whatever the outcome no one is disappointed. We love the white sandy beaches, they are fun and safe for the children and we can’t seem to keep them out of the sea which besides being clean turquoise and warm, the depths are ideal for families. Lunch at the beach has become a convention, it could be a packed lunch, freshly bought Panini, Pizza or Foccacia, or we spoil ourselves and dine at a restaurant, il Vigliero at Villa Nova being our favourite.

The sea

The sea


Late afternoon we head back from the beach and make a coffee or a beer and relax in the early evening sun. This is a relaxing part of the day as the children tend to take a cat nap, and are rejuvenated for the evening.
City walls

City walls


In the evening we often head to the old town of Ostuni for an inexpensive but delicious  meal. Afterwards we walk around in the white labyrinth of narrow streets and find piazza to buy an ice-cream and watch the world go by.

Written by conrad in: Holiday | Tags: , , , ,

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